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Day 2
The Côte de Beaune
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Today's itinerary
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Buffet breakfast at La Chouette.
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Fairly early this morning we transfer into Beaune to see the major sites of this unique town. Winding through the medieval streets and alleyways we stop at various cultural and historic highlights including the Nôtre-Dame Basilica and the Musée du Vin ( Wine Museum). We follow the different pedestrian walkways as well to get oriented and know where all the best shopping spots are located. Our walk ends at the world renowned Hospices de Beaune where we have a private visit.
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From Beaune we head south by minibus through the vines of the Côte de Beaune to the Château de Puligny-Montrachet where we meet up with Etienne de Montille. Etienne is the director and winemaker at the Château as well as his family operation in Volnay, Domaine de Montille. Another passionate and quality focussed vigneron, Etienne will describe his wine making technique as we taste wines from both wineries followed by a mouth-watering lunch nearby.
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The day wouldn’t be complete without a stop in Pommard at Comte Armand to taste with Benjamin Leroux. Ben is one of the new young guns making luscious wine from vines in Pommard, Volnay, Meursault and Auxey Duresses. A firm believer in the biodynamic method, unpretentious yet formidably talented, Ben is a pleasure to taste with.
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Once back at La Chouette we will have some free time to relax before dinner.
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Dinner tonight at Le Benaton, a terrific, tiny restaurant on the edge of Beaune. Bruno Monnoir is a top chef and a great friend. One star Michelin since 2007.
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Overnight at La Terre d’Or.
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Le Benaton
Bruno and Isabelle Monnoir started this small restaurant just outside the boulevard around Beaune in the early 1990s. Bruno’s father ran the Relais de Saulx, a starred restaurant in Beaune where Bruno learned the ropes. After training in other great restaurants including Le Vieux Moulin in Bouilland and Lameloise in Chagny, he felt ready to open his own. Le Benaton gets rave reviews from both the Michelin and the Gault Millau guides.
Bruno and Isabelle Monnoir started this small restaurant just outside the boulevard around Beaune in the early 1990s. Bruno’s father ran the Relais de Saulx, a starred restaurant in Beaune where Bruno learned the ropes. After training in other great restaurants including Le Vieux Moulin in Bouilland and Lameloise in Chagny, he felt ready to open his own. Le Benaton gets rave reviews from both the Michelin and the Gault Millau guides.
The Côte de Beaune
Defined as the area from just north of Beaune above Aloxe-Corton south to just past the village of Santenay. This area is more renowned for its white wines but don’t let that fool you, there are great reds grown here as well. At the top of the Côte is the town of Aloxe-Corton, the only village in Burgundy that has both white and red Grand cru appellations. Beaune is the next village south and capital of the Côte de Beaune. Pommard follows, then Volnay, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay. Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet are where the finest white Burgundies are produced. All produced using the Chardonnay grape, these white appellations are considered among the very best dry white wines in the world. Pommard and Volnay produce red wines that, while different than their neighbours on the Côte de Nuits, are rich and elegant, more finesse driven.
Defined as the area from just north of Beaune above Aloxe-Corton south to just past the village of Santenay. This area is more renowned for its white wines but don’t let that fool you, there are great reds grown here as well. At the top of the Côte is the town of Aloxe-Corton, the only village in Burgundy that has both white and red Grand cru appellations. Beaune is the next village south and capital of the Côte de Beaune. Pommard follows, then Volnay, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay. Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet are where the finest white Burgundies are produced. All produced using the Chardonnay grape, these white appellations are considered among the very best dry white wines in the world. Pommard and Volnay produce red wines that, while different than their neighbours on the Côte de Nuits, are rich and elegant, more finesse driven.
Beaune
With a population of about 25,000 inhabitants, Beaune is not a large city, but rather a large village. Beaune has, since the 14th century, been the commercial pulse of the Burgundian wine trade. Its vineyards, the most extensive of the Côte de Beaune, cover 1,111 acres between Savigny, to the north, and Pommard, to the south. There are no grand cru vineyards in the commune of Beaune, yet its 36 premier cru vineyards occupy 795 acres, over double the 317 acres under the Beaune village appellation. The Beaune and Beaune premier cru vineyards are ranked as such for both red and white wines, yet the latter account for only 4.5 percent of the average annual production.
History estimates that Beaune was colonized in 52 B.C. on the site of one of Julius Caesar's military camps. Speculations on the original name vary: from "belna," a small villa; or "Belen," a Gallic deity; or a corruption of "Belisana," alias of the goddess Minerva. Beaune's importance grew after the destruction of the city of Autun in the 6th century, and Gregory of Tours' history of France, written in 570, already documented its importance in the culture of the vine. Formally chartered as a city in 1203, Beaune remained the residence of the dukes of Burgundy until supplanted by Dijon in the late 1300s; it was during the bloody period that followed Beaune's destruction by fire in 1401, under Louis XI and Charles XIII, that the massive fortified walls and pentangular castle, which still stand today, were built.
With a population of about 25,000 inhabitants, Beaune is not a large city, but rather a large village. Beaune has, since the 14th century, been the commercial pulse of the Burgundian wine trade. Its vineyards, the most extensive of the Côte de Beaune, cover 1,111 acres between Savigny, to the north, and Pommard, to the south. There are no grand cru vineyards in the commune of Beaune, yet its 36 premier cru vineyards occupy 795 acres, over double the 317 acres under the Beaune village appellation. The Beaune and Beaune premier cru vineyards are ranked as such for both red and white wines, yet the latter account for only 4.5 percent of the average annual production.
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Pernand-Vergelesses, Burgundy |